There is a truly unique event that takes place every year in the heart of Italy, where the boundaries between the human and the wild simply dissolve. It is a story of snakes. Of people and snakes. The ancestral fascination - that unique mix of wonder and fear - finds a profound synthesis in Cocullo, a small village nestled in the heart of the Abruzzo Apennines. Here, the Feast of San Domenico Abate takes place. It is a unique sacred-profane ritual where the statue of the Saint is draped in live serpents and carried through the streets by serpari (snake-catchers). The rite symbolizes the reconciliation between man and nature, transforming ancestral fears into a powerful celebration of spiritual protection and environmental stewardship.
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| San Domenico draped in live four-lined snakes during the procession of the serpari © Photo: Riccardo Scalera |
This unique cultural landscape has evolved into a visionary, long-term "community science" event on snake protection, the greatest and genuine ever seen in Italy and beyond. In the weeks leading up to the May 1st celebration, the serpari traverse the surrounding territory to collect the snakes, providing a rare and precious opportunity to investigate the biology of these species in their natural habitat. By bridging the ancient skill of the search with the modern rigor of data collection, their precious knowledge and respect for nature and wildlife have developed into a fascinating crossroads where modern herpetological science meets tradition, effectively blending cultural heritage with the systematic gathering of biological data. In addition to that, the event also become a very popular tourist attraction for enthusiasts and curious people of all ages coming from all over the country and beyond.
This sacred-profane ritual hence allowed for the collection of a vast amount of data on snakes, effectively transforming the local serpari into true "custodians of biodiversity." Working under official permits, these practitioners treat the animals with immense care and respect, fostering a deep sense of environmental responsibility that permeates the entire community. This shared commitment is what has enabled over 15 years of rigorous scientific monitoring, ensuring that the ancient tradition serves a modern ecological purpose. Data are collected by renowned herpetologists with the vital contributions of leading veterinarians from the University of Bari and other experts who work in close step with the local serpari. A fundamental aspect of this work is that all captured specimens are marked with a PIT tag (microchip). This allows for individual identification and serves as a crucial measure to abide by the law. Since these species are protected under the EU Habitats Directive, the marking system ensures compliance with the specific legal derogation granted for this rite, providing a transparent and regulated framework for the study of the four-lined snake (Elaphe quatuorlineata), the Aesculapian snake (Zamenis longissimus), the barred grass snake (Natrix helvetica), the smooth snake (Coronella austriaca), the southern smooth snake (Coronella girondica), and the green whip snake (Hierophis viridiflavus).
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| A rare smooth snakes captured by the serpari © Photo: Riccardo Scalera |
Data collected across the years confirms the sustainability of this practice. Many individuals are recaptured time and again, showing regular growth and no evidence of harm from the ritual, proving that these reptiles are thriving within their ecosystem despite their annual role in the procession. Crucially, the project integrates a One Health perspective through in-depth veterinary investigations that monitor the reptiles' health as a vital bio-indicator of the broader environment. By recognizing that the well-being of the community, the wildlife, and the local habitat are inextricably linked, the event has become a fundamental platform for ecological research and public health awareness.
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| A green whip snake being examined for mites © Photo: Riccardo Scalera |
This evocative atmosphere and the delicate balance between science and society is masterfully captured in the book Slither by Stephen Hall, where the story of this celebration is described with rare sensitivity and depth. Having had the privilege of meeting the author and sharing the experience of the festival with him, I was impressed by his extraordinary personality and his rich background as a journalist specifically focusing on science and society - and his long-time tenure as a correspondent in Italy. For those interested in the many unknown facts and stories of snakes and humans, this book is an essential guide. Stephen Hall explores a wide array of compelling themes, ranging from the surprising parental care found in rattlesnakes to the biological marvels of pythons that physically remodel their internal organs to digest each meal. He further delves into the rapid evolution of venom as an environmental adaptation and even traces the roots of holistic medicine back to the proto-hospitals of Pindar’s Greece.
These stories serve to reconcile myth with biology, much like the rite of Cocullo itself. Ultimately, the annual Feast of San Domenico Abate stands as a powerful symbol of community resilience, successfully bridging ancient faith with modern ecological stewardship while solidifying its status as a vital piece of Italian cultural heritage.
